Dries Van Noten used painting and dyeing techniques to make prints that are reminiscent of the view of earth from space; heavy clumps of land, deep blue, and swirling clouds of white. The generally neutral colour palette prevents the print from becoming over powering, and instead compliments the casual, tailored daywear.
SCRAPBOOK
Thursday, 14 October 2010
PRINT Kenzo
Kenzo was among the selection of highly acclaimed menswear designers showing back in june. The prints were what excited me about this collection. For inspiration, creative director Antonio Marras retraced Kenzo Takada's steps from Paris back to Tokyo, visually in the form of illustrative floral prints combined with some french breton stripes. The colour palette had a lot of neutral tones with grey and driftwood browns, broken up with few vivid reds, greens and blues. This reflected the culture clash and the mid-tones provided a perfect backdrop for the prints.
30.09.10 Paris
Something about Balenciaga's ss11 show evoked sixties London to me, perhaps it was the faux-leather houndstooth, or the the short cocoon silhouettes, or maybe the neat collars and flats. I love the cuts of the button-down shirts, cleverly cut and interlinked with inserts of other garments and leather. I like this look, it's realistic and yet fashion-forward.
02.10.10 Paris
There is no end to Rei Kawakubo's innovation when it comes to deconstructing and reconstructing garments. Today there were sleeves sewn on to sleeves, mis-matched jacket fronts, and even upside down garments. The black textures, particularly leather, combined in a laid back layered style, gave the models a rough edge. Although, the simpler garments like the mini dresses and skirts, with the use of white, softened the collection.
The menswear collection shown in Paris in June had a similar hard edge, but it was in the form of rough tailoring, dark colours and skull prints.
05.10.10 Paris
Karl Lagerfeld knows how to put on a show. Season after season he creates dreamlike settings to preview his upcoming Chanel collection. For spring he drew inspiration from sixties film Last Year at Marienbad, in which there are descriptions of beautifully monochrome, ornamental gardens, a scene made for Chanel.
The vast black umbrellas that accompanied some looks almost looked like giant hats, enhancing the magical mood of the show, but the real spectacle was the 80 strong orchestra that serenaded the audience in true Fantasia style, whilst the Chanel dolls paraded around the black and white stage.
Tuesday, 12 October 2010
Alexander McQueen
Following the memorial of Lee Alexander Mcqueen at St. Paul's Cathedral during London Fashion Week, Paris saw the label rise like a phoenix from the ashes with a fresh new take on McQueen signatures. Sarah Burton had a lot to live up to, taking over from a great designer and retaining their style , whilst bringing something new to the table. She succeeded bringing a soft, lightness to the previously dark collections.
The look is opulent; rich brocades, jewel encrusted velvet, gold crocodile skin and florals digitally printed onto sheer cloths. The tailoring is softer and there is more movement than usual which adds to the feminine touch brought by Burton.
Monday, 11 October 2010
Prada
One of my favorite shows of Milan was Prada. The eclectic influences and seaside feel were evocative of the Cholmondeleys from Lea Anderson's dance production, Cross Channel.
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