Like Fendi, Dan and Dean Caten took a softer approach to ss11 than usual. DSquared2’s look was casual and slouchy, but still tidy, a stark contrast from their aw10 collection which had sharp, exaggerated shapes. The Oxford flats, straw hats and oversized glasses naturally compliment the holiday collection.
The textures work really well here, note the snakeskin and embellished details on the skirts. Neutrals, browns and charcoal greys are set off with small bursts of turquoise, ocean blue and juicy orange.
Georgio Armani was as chic and refined as ever today, showing a parade of beautifully crafted gowns and smart separates, in a wash of deep, midnight blues and inky black.
Dolce & Gabbana’s ss11 collection says feminine in every way possible, including embroidery, lace and floral prints, not to mention pretty cuts, floaty layers, billowing skirts and short lengths. The salt and pepper colour palette keeps the overall look from looking sickly and instead creates a cool, modern city look.
Consuelo Castiglioni added strong athletic detailing to Marni’s kooky signature look, in the form of wetsuit-like construction, swimming caps and cycling shorts. The paneling of more feminine fabrics and geometric prints give the sportswear influences an edge. This collection really works as separates as the broad colour palette can easily be mixed and matched, so it benefits from being wearable too.
Another designer to draw on the Tribal trend is Missoni with brilliant prints and colourful weaves, accented with black outlines.
Jil Sander has to be the show of ss11, and Raf Simons has proved you don’t need to be decorated like a Christmas tree to make an impact. The easy combination of classic t-shirts and billowing ball gown skirts lends itself to the nineties-inspired Minimal trend, but still maintaining the glamour expected in Milan.
Colours are striking, including bubblegum pink, deep purple, emerald green and fluorescent orange all in the opening looks, but the use is so simplistic the result isn’t over-powering. A tip for following this trend would be to wear one bold, statement colour with a plain white t-shirt, and don’t forget the accessory of the season – the plastic shopping bag.
There was a Biba-Girl-on-safari feel today at Etro. Bell-bottom trousers, button-down shirts and skirts, and floaty bias-cut dresses, were covered in a mash-up of African tribal prints and bold, seventies florals. The colour palette included lush blues and turquoise, hot oranges and reds, set off with stone and black.
Moschino’s extreme Americana look was evocative of the Ashish show in London, but added a South American flair in the flamenco shapes and ruffles. I feel this addition did come off a bit eighties-barn dance at times, especially with the styling, but the looks with less polka dots and more South American trims worked really well.
Prada showed today a collection that seemed to be from a melting pot of inspirations; the models were all styled in a 1920s Josephine Baker fashion, hospital scrubs were the main cut of choice and some of there prints also featured Baker’s banana motifs, there was also a definite seaside feel. The girls looked classical and bizarre, reminiscent of the Cholmondeleys from Lea Anderson’s Cross Channel.
Fendi took an all-together softer turn this season with drawstring waists, dropped shoulders and natural volume. The styling was also soft with simple straight hair and barely there makeup; the overall look had a feeling of a fresh start, perfect for spring.
There was Phantom of the Opera drama at Francesco Scognamiglio today; the first model breezed down the catwalk, ghostlike, in a semi-sheer, white shirt-dress. By combining classic Victorian detailing and risqué cut away panels, Scognamiglio sent a suggestive message. The use of nudes, purples and black intensified the collection. While the sharp, considered tailoring exaggerated the silhouette in a dramatic flourish. He finished with a mesmerizing champagne gazar and black lace gown, a replica of the one he created for Lady Gaga.
Another head-turner today in Milan was Gucci. Contradicting the current trend of all-white opening looks, Frida Giannini opted for splashes of exotic colours, with classic gold accents. The bold colour palette is refreshing, and because of the clean, sleek silhouettes, it is not over-powering.
New York saw a series of emerging trends; Seventies, Americana and Nineties-Minimal were all key. Also, the trend of live-streaming shows on the internet has caught on a lot more since February, this progression is doing a lot to make fashion more accessible. Contrary to this idea are designers like Tom Ford.
For ss11 he only invited a select 100 guests to the preview of his debut womenswear collection in New York, the event wasn’t scheduled and the venue was kept secret. There was a strict order for no pictures to be taken, so the collection will not be seen by the public until it is released on his website in December. Some details have been ‘leaked’ of course, including some blurry back-stage photos and the model running order. Ford said he wanted iconic women to showcase his collection, these included Julianne Moore, Daphne Guinness, Lou Doillon and Beyonce.
New York always has a commercial appeal; unlike London, Milan and Paris, most of the collections could be worn straight off the catwalk and onto the streets. In addition to this is the noticeable fixture of Project Runway designers showing at Bryant Park, lowering the overall standard. As London is the environment that I live and work in, it is probably fair to say I am biased in my opinion but I feel London Fashion Week designers push the boundaries whereas New York just watches them do it.
Milan has always had a feeling of high class, high quality and high standards, helped by old techniques and the accessibility of fine fabrics, so I am looking forward to the week ahead. Paris, the birthplace of fashion, has to me, always had a certain romance about it. It also has the most big names on the catwalk and in the front-row. On top of this, it has years of experience that puts Reality TV fashionistas, like The Hills girls and Project Runway contestants, to shame.
Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci has shown multiple ways to wear this trend. He played with lengths, mixing the statement skirts with tailored trousers, shorts and mini-skirts, in a slick colour palette of black, white, cream and leopard print. Zip details and the small use of leather add a sublte punk edge, although some of these harder looks have been softened by stiff ruffles and neutral colours.
The last day of London Fashion Week is reserved for menswear and, in my opinion, they saved the best for last. The sleek menswear, hinted at in yesterday’s Burberry Prorsum show, was expanded on with more sharp cuts and stylish zip details.
Christopher Shannon’s collection had traveler influences, which was also reflected in the makeup; horizons painted onto the boys’ faces. The cut-away sections add interest, revealing the uneven layers beneath.
Following Shannon was J.W. Anderson with a typically hard yet delicate collection. Photos of teenage rebels were printed onto t-shirts, a good look for both the men’s and women’s wear.
The Americana trend seen in New York last week was a prominent theme for Ashish today. There was the usual cheeky attitude, portrayed through trucker hats and trashy prints. The oversized separates and ten-gallon hats also added a humorous element.
Burberry Prorsum’s highlights today where the handful of men's looks, particularly the use of brown in the new trench coats. The womenswear was hard with leather jackets and studs, yet still maintained a sleek, polished look.
Todd Lynn’s inspiration was reptiles; he played with textures to imitate the look of shedding skins.
Today Christopher Kane presented a line of first lady separates in fluorescent orange, pink and green. Floral patterns were printed on neon leather skirts and worn with conservative argyle sweaters. The overall look has a slight Michelle Obama charm, embracing the skirt suit but bringing it into the 21st century with bold prints and brilliant colour.
Elsewhere, David Koma continued the trend of all white opening looks, then followed with a series of striking prints, gold snakeskin and black.
The magical woodland setting was perfect for MeadhamKirchoff’s ss11 collection; it had a strong styling direction and harajuku girl influences.
Margaret Howell’s ss11 contribution has a nostalgic air. Simplistic separates in white, navy and sand were teamed with brown loafers for a laid-back, holiday look.
As always, Vivienne Westwood Red Label was an exciting, diverse show. Sharp, edgy tailoring mixed with summer t-shirts and shirt dresses. Cool smudges of colour highlighted the models faces, and gave them a silver-screen sheen.
There was drama at Richard Nicholl this evening, with sheer layers and leather, and swooshes of black. The venue was the old Eurostar platform at Waterloo station, which suited the slick collection.
The Betty Jackson show today was a good all-rounder, consisting of playful day-to-evening wear in neutral tones. Daks had a cool city vibe and colour palette of grey, white, yellow and black, and Henry Holland gave the bohemian Seventies trend an edge with his use of metallic pinks, blues, silver and gold.
Louise Gray’s models looked like a bag of pic’n’mix in her show entitled Get Some Stuff. Taking inspiration from tribes in Trinidad and Tobago, Gray created her typically fanciful looks complete with party-popper headwear, but blended in new techniques of knotting and draping. Sugary colours are layered on painterly prints, resulting in an altogether decorative look. Louise Gray has once again proved she knows how to make an impact, New York should take note.
After a relatively tame week in New York, it was refreshing to see Bora Aksu’s addition to London Fashion Week. The ant-inspired collection had fluid black lines and organic shapes, creating a striking Art Nouveau look. Dark shades of luxurious velvets and brocades, fine lace and sheer fabrics were exquisitely pieced together, whilst some sharp tailoring broke up the feminine feel. The graphic tights complete the collection; with their curvaceous lines they are flattering whilst still making a statement.
Later on Ashley Isham presented 39 evening dresses. There was lots of variety in terms of colour, ranging from black and silver, through to more exotic blues and pinks, then after some more neutral tones, Isham finished traditionally with white bridal looks.
Calvin Klein was amongst the wave of designers in the nineties that began the Minimal trend. In the wake of the excessive eighties, fashion had a more back-to-basics feel; simplistic shapes, clean silhouettes and basic block colouring. ss11 sees Calvin Klein once again at the fore-front of this stripped down trend.
J Mendel and Ralph Lauren kicked-off the last day with more neutral palettes. Ralph Lauren had an old western feel with brown suede, white cotton and lace, and South American weaves.
Calvin Klein had a strong influence on the minimal trend when it took off in the nineties, and today they revealed another impressive collection in this style. Simplistic shapes make a clean silhouette, particularly in the all white looks, along with the complete absence of details like collars, buttons and cuffs. Delicate pleating and the use of fine fabrics soften the look.
Day seven started slowly with a run of fairly standard shows. Examples of these are Bill Blass and Tory Burch, whose collections were commercially viable, but just not particularly memorable.
Thing’s picked up later in the day at Anna Sui, where they are now entering their twentieth year, and this collection still has the youthful spirit it started with. Mixing prints is often seen at Anna Sui; for ss11 she has combined global influences with more traditional florals and checks. These prints are patch-worked and pieced together, and put with crochet and blue denim forming a seventies inspired collection. The craftsmanship seen in the textiles and trims give the wearable collection its high-quality feel.
Narciso Rodriguez put forward a collection with a minimal Nineties look. Calf-length hemlines and bias cuts were key alongside unfussy tailoring and t-shirt dresses.
The highlight of day six however, was Rodarte. They took a more raw approach to minimal design by using clean construction and cut away details, highlighted by the neutral colour palette. There was a distinct country feel with fabrics digitally printed to look like wood, combined with lumberjack checks and florals.
This morning Carolina Herrera sent down a mature collection with some Asian influences and a range of floral prints and motifs.
Carlos Miele put across his butterfly theme very literally through print ideas, curved lines and shapes. The sheer fabrics work well because of their likeness to butterfly wings.
Colour blocking was strong at Alexandre Herchcovitch, using paint-box hues. Strips of colour were woven to form Tetris-like prints. Another bold print was a paint splodge effect in lighter tints. The silhouettes were voluminous, with the majority of the shape focused in the sleeves. The bright accessories and painted lips enhanced the striking look of the collection.
Stood in the exhibition space, Rebecca Minkoff’s models looked like shop mannequins. There was a random mix of styles, all very wearable, and the fresh-faced models added to the overall commercial look.
Timo Weiland also showed at the Box. The menswear and womenswear complimented each other with their subtle nautical details. This theme was also mirrored in the presentation space with ropes and shipping crates. Graphic prints and bold colours keep the look fresh. The silhouette remained slim throughout, still a popular look, adding to the wearability of the garments.
Today another set of designers chose to live stream their shows online, among them were Derek Lam, Rebecca Taylor and Vassilios Kostetsos.
A highly anticipated show of day three was Alexander Wang. Similarly to some of yesterday’s shows, he opened in all white. This is particularly unusual for him as black occurs regularly in his work. Like previous seasons, he has included deconstruction and sportswear, with boxy jackets and softer pieces. The edgy masculinity of model, Omahyra Mota, reflects the overall androgynous feel of the collection.
The mood was lightened today at the Z Spoke by Zac Posen show, bringing in bright colours and a playful nod to the sixties.
Jill Stuart took a more minimal approach. Her monochrome looks have simple shapes and a practical feel.
It is steadily becoming more common for designer’s to seek alternative methods to showcase their collections; Max and Lubov Azria chose to live-stream their BCBG line on their website. The show begins with all white looks, graduates into neutral tones, then heats up with orange and red, and finishes in black. Similarly, Nicole Miller opted for opening in all white.
Michael Angel’s innovative collection stood out, featuring bold prints, transparencies and menswear influences.
Another notable designer was Jason Wu, who covered everything from casual to eveningwear. Whilst maintaining a very luxe feel, the clothes are also wearable, which will appeal to many.
New York, as one of the more eagerly awaited Fashion Weeks, mildly disappointed as it got off to a slow start. With the latest batch of Project Runway contestants, and previous winner Christian Siriano, showing among only a handful of designers, the day was a gentle introduction to the week ahead.
The highlight of the day was Bensoni, who showed a Seventies inspired collection with clever pieces, like the acid-wash denim skirt that moved like silk, from the opening look.
Nicholas K chose the unoriginal theme of military, using it to create an unimaginative collection of not-so-relevant urban leisurewear. The colour palette consisting mainly of grey, black and khaki was obvious. Both the men's and women's looks were over-styled with predictable accessories like aviators, boots and military hats.
